The latest fall/winter collection from +J—designer Jil Sander’s line for Japanese retailer Uniqlo, which launched in the U.S. in the fall of 2009—will mark the collaboration’s fifth and final season. Despite carrying on the clean, modern lines Sander is known for, the collection introduces a significant change in the line’s design: While +J’s color palette has largely been built around what the brand dubs “hues of the global uniform”—reds, blacks, browns, and greys—the new lookbook includes a more lively contingent of mud, claret, Prussian blue, and Russian green. There’s also a bit of a conceptual gap between the the men’s and women’s collections this time around, with the former skewing towards simple shapes and restrained tailoring and the latter adopting a mod-meets-futuristic aesthetic, complete with a wool zip-up sheath dress and a ribbed sweater with an exaggerated turtleneck.

As with past seasons, special attention has been paid to outerwear, primarily down-insulated shapes and double-faced wool and cashmere blends. These include A-line puffer jackets and wide-collared pea coats for women, and military-inspired parkas and toggle-fastening wool coats for men. Also remaining is the collection’s other signature feature: its accessible, $250-and-under price point—something that might not last for long once +J garments become coveted collector’s items or eBay spoils. No matter. There’s always Uniqlo’s next collaborative effort, this one with Japanese luxury brand Undercover, to look forward to. Rumor has it the line will be in stores as soon as next spring.

Uniqlo +J Fall/Winter 2011
Photos: Courtesy of Uniqlo