Timepiece Design Developments from Geneva Watch Days 2025

In the Pavilion at the Rotonde du Mont-Blanc, along the banks of Lake Geneva, the annual timepiece gathering Geneva Watch Days welcomed 66 brands earlier this September. Founded by Breitling, Bulgari, De Bethune, Girard-Perregaux, H. Moser & Cie., MB&F, Ulysse Nardin, and Urwerk in 2020, the trade show acts as a launch pad for new releases and as the centrifugal force for adjacent events throughout the Swiss city. This year, founding maisons Moser and Ulysse Nardin introduced eye-catching, technically advanced pieces—as debuts from independent manufacturers like Oris, Dennison, and Bremont refreshed design conventions.

With Moser, the Pioneer Flying Hours marries the maison’s Pioneer line and its satellite-inspired wandering hours function—for the first time. Though two models were introduced, it’s the 5N red gold and black DLC titanium release, paired with an aventurine dial, that levels aesthetics with function. For Ulysse Nardin, the Freak [X Crystalium] incorporates a dial featuring the rare platinum-group metal ruthenium which has undergone a vapour-deposition crystallization process that forms fractal-like structures. More than dial decoration, the effect represents material science innovation.

This year, Oris unveiled its Bamford Watch Department ProPilot Altimeter “Mission Control” collaboration. Based upon the Oris ProPilot Altimeter—the only watch in the world to house a Swiss-made automatic movement alongside a mechanical altimeter—this limited-edition, space-inspired watch features a case crafted from 3D-printed carbon as well as Bamford’s playful design contributions. In contrast, Bremont’s aviation evolution manifests as the monochrome MB Meteor Stealth Grey, which sets a dial with a meteorite-inspired embossed texture into an ultra-light titanium bracelet.

With the introduction of the ALD Dual Time, Dennison demonstrates the power of simplicity. The recently revived watchmaker split its cushion-shaped case down the middle to allow for twin hour and minute hands atop its signature stone dials. This allows two time zones to be shown at once, as well as the option to mix and match precious and semiprecious materials.