DESIGN DISPATCH

Phoebe Philo's Fashion Label Announces $41 Million in 2025 Sales, and Other News

Plus, U.S. artist visas are increasingly going to influencers and OnlyFans creators, and the Louvre partially reopens in Paris.

Courtesy of Phoebe Philo

Phoebe Philo’s eponymous fashion label has posted $41 million in sales for 2025.

Phoebe Philo’s namesake label reported $41 million in sales for 2025, nearly tripling revenue from its first full year of trading, according to a U.K. regulatory filing. Growth accelerated as the brand expanded beyond its initial digital-only model, with wholesale and concessions accounting for about a third of sales after openings at Bergdorf Goodman, Dover Street Market, and other major retailers. The company continued to operate at a loss in 2024 while investing heavily in product, inventory, and marketing. Founded in 2021 with LVMH as a minority investor, the label plans further wholesale growth, expansion in Asia, and a broader range of products in the year ahead.

Brown University has terminated the two curators of its Bell Gallery for contemporary art.

Brown University has terminated both curators of its Bell Gallery for contemporary art amid campus-wide layoffs tied to a deepening budget shortfall. Chief curator Kate Kraczon and associate curator Thea Quiray Tagle received notice in early December and will remain in their roles through early 2026, though the university has offered no public explanation beyond citing financial pressures. Faculty members say the decision caught them off guard and has raised concerns about future programming at a gallery that plays a central role in teaching and public engagement. The move comes as Brown confronts a projected $30 million deficit and continues to implement austerity measures across the institution.

Courtesy of the Louvre

Following December staff strikes and a closure, the Louvre has partially reopened.

The Louvre reopened on Monday after a three-hour delay, but sections of the museum remain closed as staff weigh whether to resume rolling strikes. Workers paused the action on December 19 ahead of the holidays and continue to press for higher pay, improved conditions, and additional hiring. The reopening follows a turbulent period marked by an unresolved October jewel theft valued at about $102 million and recent infrastructure failures, including a water leak that damaged rare books. Union representatives say these crises reflect deeper staffing and management problems that the museum has yet to address.

The U.S.’ O-1-B “artist visa” is overwhelmingly going to influencers and OnlyFans creators.

Applications for the O-1-B artist visa, intended for creatives of extraordinary ability, are increasingly coming from social media influencers and OnlyFans creators, with immigration lawyers saying they now make up a majority of their O-1 clients. Attorneys argue that follower counts, subscriber revenue, and brand deals offer clear proof of commercial success, making their cases easier to quantify than those of many traditional artists. The number of O-1 visas granted rose more than 50 percent from 2014 to 2024, far outpacing overall growth in non-immigrant visas, even as the category remains relatively small. Critics warn that reliance on attention-based metrics risks sidelining artists whose work does not translate into online reach, reshaping how “extraordinary ability” gets defined.

Saks is seeking lenders to supply a $1 billion bankruptcy loan to continue operations.

Saks Global Enterprises is seeking lenders for up to $1 billion in debtor-in-possession financing as it prepares a potential Chapter 11 filing aimed at keeping the business operating. The retailer recently missed a more than $100 million interest payment and has been negotiating temporary relief with creditors while it works toward a financing package or restructuring plan. Bondholders have discussed a loan structure that could combine new capital with existing debt to stabilize liquidity after a bankruptcy filing. The talks follow a year of weak sales, inventory problems, and leadership changes, including the exit of CEO Marc Metrick.

Courtesy of Taschen

Today’s attractive distractions:

With Ultimate Collector Watches, Taschen has written the book on vintage timepieces. 

Team USA has named an official beauty brand for the Milan 2026 Winter Olympic Games. 

The rumored iPhone fold is eliciting some very strong opinions.

Onscreen and on red carpets, Odessa A’zion and her hair are having a moment

All Stories