Inspired by the inimitable sushi dens of Tokyo’s Ginza, Hiyakawa is one of Miami’s most highly regarded Japanese experiences. Housed inside an architectural space in the Wynwood Arts District, the restaurant is an artwork in its own right thanks to a mesmerizing blond-wood installation whose undulating forms call to mind the motion of the sea. From the street, it glows like an illuminated sculpture displayed triumphantly in a gallery; inside, chef Masayuki Komatsu is busy at work orchestrating his own performance art. “My best view of the restaurant is outside to see inside,” Komatsu says. “The guests are a piece of the art.”
The distinctive dining room serves as a stage for Hiyakawa’s nightly offering of tempuras, soups, grilled meats, and sushi, prepared with traditional techniques like agemono (deep fried), nimono (simmered), and yakimono (pan-fried or grilled). The sushi program truly shines thanks to Komatsu’s sashimi medley assembled with fish flown in from Tokyo’s Toyosu Fish Market.
The Japanese philosophy of kikubari, the art of caring for others similar to the Western concept of hospitality, is at the heart of Hiyakawa’s ethos. Patrons can expect beautifully crafted ceramic sake vessels and small wooden brushes to paint pieces of nigiri with aged soy sauces. Can’t-miss dishes include the yuzumiso Scottish salmon, lamb chops smoked in rosemary, and, of course, the omakase offered at the eight-seat bar.
In the latest installment of Designing Delicious, we visit Hiyakawa.
