Opening Shot

In Amsterdam, a Hyper Locavore Restaurant Masquerading as an Art Installation

Dining at Amsterdam’s new Capital Kitchen is like taking a trip into the eccentric mind of artist and style icon Maarten Spruyt.

Opening Shot is a column that peeks inside new hotels, restaurants, bars, and shops with dreamy interiors.

CAPITAL KITCHEN

Location: Amsterdam

Designer: Maarten Spruyt

On Offer: The cabinet of curiosities is one of the more unique environments to enjoy a piece of smoked mackerel, that’s for sure. One of the first things patrons encounter upon arrival is artist Joep van Lieshout’s The Creature, a deconstructed skeleton symbolizing exposure of the inner self, hanging above the bar. It’s quite the conversation starter while you knock back a vodka-based Sleazy Barbie, mixed with rhubarb syrup, red currant, and lemon.

Standout Features: It’s not the only visual treasure that awaits: Dutch collective Rotganzen’s melted disco ball sets the space aglow with reflected fragments of light that speckle Bas van Tol’s statement salmon pink staircase and pieces like Juul Kraijer’s human-esque sculpture, Quelle Fête, which appears to be growing branches as arms. The highly magnified tabletops showcase cellular-level images of human organs such as the esophagus and, yes, even genitals. What better setting for chef Dave Wijnschenk’s considered seasonal menu of creamy fennel soup, flat iron steak stew, and locally sourced lamb with Aubergine caviar and watermelon? “From the moment you read a menu, neurons in your brain activate,” Spruyt says. “And while you eat, your salivary glands are active, so I also wanted to portray that beauty on a few of the tables.” We can promise this: You’ll never look at ox sausage the same again.

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