Rachel Bu innovating on the Mother Chain motif in the studio. Credit: Courtesy of Authorne.
Angels Share and Devils Cut brooches. Credit: Courtesy of Authorne.
DESIGNER OF THE DAY

Designer of the Day: Rachel Bu

Authorne founder Rachel Bu knows a thing or two about transformation. In 2022, she converted her visual arts studio to a fine jewelry workshop and has scarcely looked back. Then, this past September, she launched Authorne, a collection of one-of-a-kind pieces that blur the lines between accessories and wearable sculpture, with a debut exhibition at new Gowanus creative hub Powerhouse Arts. At Authorne, Bu instills her creations with symbolic narratives that seem to be pulled from an ancient mythology. She’s now undertaking her second collection, collaborating with creative minds to instill new motifs and stories into her multilayered works.

Authorne founder Rachel Bu knows a thing or two about transformation. In 2022, she converted her visual arts studio to a fine jewelry workshop and has scarcely looked back. Then, this past September, she launched Authorne, a collection of one-of-a-kind pieces that blur the lines between accessories and wearable sculpture, with a debut exhibition at new Gowanus creative hub Powerhouse Arts. At Authorne, Bu instills her creations with symbolic narratives that seem to be pulled from an ancient mythology. She’s now undertaking her second collection, collaborating with creative minds to instill new motifs and stories into her multilayered works.

Here, we ask designers to take a selfie and give us an inside look at their life.

Age: 31

Occupation: Jewelry artist.

Instagram: @authorne.nyc

Hometown: Toronto.

Studio location: Manhattan.

Describe what you make: I create intricate sculptural jewelry that has resonance beyond aesthetics, that emphasizes the idea of wearing one’s own story. I believe the true value of jewelry is the tangible embodiment of treasured memories, a means by which we can cement moments in time. 

Authorne's Mother Chain stacked necklaces. Credit: Courtesy of Authorne.
Rachel Bu innovating on the Mother Chain motif in the studio. Credit: Courtesy of Authorne.

The most important thing you’ve designed to date: My first collection is meaningful in its negotiation of key motifs that have laid the foundation for Authorne’s legacy as we evolve and grow. In appreciating the transformative resilience of the Cicada, or the mystery and subtle cunning of the Octopus, and the duality and grace of the Guardian Lions, for instance, Authorne has left no doubt where our values and principles lie. This prioritization of the innate is inextricably linked to our brand ethos. 

Describe the problem your work solves: In the jewelry industry, a common pain point revolves around inventory. Excess inventory not only leads to waste but also hampers creativity. Dealing with surplus stock can limit the freedom to innovate and explore new artistic directions. My aim is to challenge the prevailing ‘fast-food’ culture, stepping away from the constant pressure to follow trends. Instead, I strive to design timeless creations that capture a memory, a moment in time. I believe in listening to individual stories, exploring personal histories, and drawing inspiration from these narratives. Through this process, I work to craft pieces that uniquely represent each individual to tell their own story.

Cicada Brooch. Credit: Courtesy of Authorne.

Describe the project you are working on now: The Mother Chain, a motif I introduced in 2023, has become an ongoing source of inspiration and a jumping-off point for new, ambitious designs. I am currently in the process of crafting a custom Mother Chain bracelet for a young musician. This unique piece embodies a masculine aesthetic while simultaneously honoring the women who gave him life and nurtured his musical talents.

A new or forthcoming project we should know about: I am in the process of collaborating with a brilliant architect and illustrator for our second collection drop. We are co-creating a collection inspired by the zodiac signs that will introduce a dynamic new interpretation of the astrological vernacular. Consider this new project a celestial revolution, a reconsideration of a trope that has stood the test of time. 

What you absolutely must have in your studio: These necessities are my “innocuous” vices: tea, whiskey, and my growing collection of antique Japanese ceramics.

Tentacles necklace. Credit: Courtesy of Authorne.

What you do when you’re not working: You’ll probably catch me playing with my kids, indulging in a mix of play and research. As I observe their adorable features, my mind drifts into daydreams of crafting yet another jewelry piece adorned with their faces! It was through play that the concept of “The Angel’s Share and Devil’s Cut” motif was born.

Sources of creative envy: I have always admired female sculptors like Louise Bourgeois, Eva Hesse, and Rachel Whiteread. Their larger-than-life sculptures are charged with psychological depth, yet they still possess a sensual and organic quality. Whiteread’s casting of everyday objects and negative space always reminds me of fossils—an imprint, a moment, a memory.

The distraction you want to eliminate: The noise on social media or in the industry in general makes it challenging to resist comparing oneself to others in the industry. The temptation to say, “Wow, I wish I were as well-known as XYZ” is hard to ignore. When these thoughts creep in, I consciously shift my focus inward. It’s a purposeful decision and practice to keep my attention on my unique journey and creativity, steering clear of the distractions created by external benchmarks.

Angels Share and Devils Cut brooches. Credit: Courtesy of Authorne.

Concrete or marble? Marble.

High-rise or townhouse? High-rise.

Remember or forget? Remember.

Aliens or ghosts? Aliens.

Dark or light? Light.

 

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