Watch Brands are Finding Their True Blue

As a centerpiece to their Watches & Wonders booth, bathed in cool light from a James Turrell-like installation, Chanel presented several models of their J12 wristwatch in a new matte blue color that took more than five years to develop. Over the last 25 years, the polished ceramic J12 models in black, and later white, have become some of the most recognizable watches in the industry. The unique J12 Bleu hue marks a nuanced development for the maison. Though, Chanel was not alone this year; the J12 was one of many examples of luxury watch brands striving for proprietary, declarative colors.

Three other luxury wristwatch houses were notable for blue endeavors. Zenith debuted their 160th anniversary blue across a trio of ceramic models. Referred to as the maison’s signature color and seen throughout its storied history and archives, this specific shade is more akin to a deep primary blue. On the monochromatic 160th anniversary edition timepieces—the Pilot Big Date Flyback Edition, the Defy Skyline Chronograph, and the Chronomaster Sport—the color conveys a brilliant sheen.

While Zenith and Chanel were tinkering with ceramic, Hublot was toying with sapphire crystal—another case material from a category of luxury outside of precious metals or stainless steel. For its Big Bang 20th anniversary “Master of Sapphire” set, Hublot developed the playful, crystalline Water Blue colorway. This transparent pigment represents both a precise formula and a labor intensive scientific process. Hublot utilized the material for other timepieces–including the Big Bang Unico Water Blue Sapphire, a limited edition of 50 pieces.

Perhaps the most mesmerizing depiction of the tone was on the dial of Parmigiani Fleurier’s Toric Quantieme Perpétuel. This luminous hue, aptly entitled “morning blue,” is composed of hand-grained platinum. With an elegant vibrance, it stands out against the polished platinum case. Blue isn’t new to watchmaking, but all of these examples demonstrate the power of finding the particular blue that reflects a brand’s values. 

With the olive green of IWC’s Ingenieur Automatic 40 (inspired by a watch featured on the wrist of Brad Pitt as he portrays Sonny Hayes in the forthcoming F1 movie), the luscious burgundy of Piaget’s red-carpet ready Limelight Gala, and the optimistic pink of the Aquis Date Taste of Summer by Oris, a range of luxury watchmakers are demonstrating that they know their consumers are ready for something beyond the ordinary. And some—like Nomos with their new Worldtimer releases, and H. Moser & Cie. with their two-tone Endeavor Small Seconds Collection—are even proving that several unexpected colors work well in concert on the same dial.