Audemars Piguet Introduces Atelier des Établisseurs

To grasp the magnitude of the trio of pieces Audemars Piguet introduced during Watches and Wonders Geneva—together known as the Établisseurs Collection—requires stepping back in time. From 1875 until the late 20th century, the Swiss watch manufacture operated as an établisseur, a word (not easily translatable) that represents an organizing force behind a network of small, independent workshops that together produce watches. Each artisan within the ecosystem had one component specialization that would contribute to the creation, which was assembled and hand-finished by the établisseur.

This year, Audemars Piguet’s first to participate in the illustrious Swiss horological gathering (since departing from its previous iteration, SIHH, in 2019), the watchmaker looked to this heritage and presented three highly imaginative, individualized, and technically advanced pieces in the new Établisseurs Collection—and announced the establishment of Atelier des Établisseurs, within the Musée Atelier Audemars Piguet in Le Brassus, Switzerland. Here, Audemars Piguet’s own specialists will continue to collaborate with a lattice of independent talent.

The three pieces—the Établisseurs Galets, Établisseurs Peacock, and Établisseurs Nomade—spotlight traditional watchmaking crafts like hand-engraving, enameling, skeletonization, gem-setting, and lapidary work to a spectacular degree. Additionally, Audemars Piguet is crediting the name of all the artisans whose hands have touched the watches, both in-house and in partnership. In fact, a full list of everyone behind each rare item is on the Audemars Piguet website.

Perhaps most impressive is the range demonstrated by the first three releases. Inspired by the smooth stones of the Lac de Joux, a picturesque ake near Audemars Piguet’s headquarters, the asymmetrical Galets wristwatch pairs pebble-shaped yellow gold links (with in-laid semi-precious stones) with a turquoise stone dial. The Nomade is equal parts pocket-sized, time-telling wonder and sculptural object. This faceted, rectangular piece conceals a hand-cut skeletonized movement. The former will be released in five variations, with only a few pieces per year; the latter will be limited to 15 pieces.

Another aesthetic and technical departure, the third piece, the Peacock, is a haute joaillerie automaton and secret watch. When activated, the peacock’s head lifts to reveal gem-encrusted plumage and an enamel dial. The majestic bird features wings with impeccably crafted miniature details—some engraved, others hand-hammered. Hidden gold wires link the bracelet, as well. Three variations are reported to be released in 2027.

It’s no small feat that Audemars Piguet developed and unveiled such wonders—two months after the announcement of nearly 20 other new releases.