Watch Wednesday: IWC’s Da Vinci Moon Phase

The notoriously macho brand aspires to appeal to women.

IWC’s first mention of ladies’ watches dates back to 1875—a surprising fact considering the Swiss watchmaker’s modern reputation for being laser-focused on timepieces for men. In an attempt to tap in to that history, this year’s SIHH watch fair brought with it the long-awaited relaunch of Da Vinci, a collection introduced in the ’80s, known for its women’s pieces. As the company shakes off a guys-only rap, it now offers a diverse range of timepieces sized and styled for the wrists of women, spanning a sporty 36 mm Pilot’s watch and a refined Portofino to the stately Da Vinci Moon Phase.

According to the newly installed CEO, Chris Grainger-Herr, the Da Vinci is the dressiest IWC option for women, but it still adheres to the design codes of the house. The refreshed collection marks the return of a round case from the previous tonneau shape. It incorporates bold, articulated lugs in stainless steel that appear to float apart from the diamond-set bezel and stainless-steel case in a manner that recalls pocket watches. Gold-colored Roman numerals, markers, and hands provide estimable legibility, while a moon-phase indicator geared with 59 teeth provides an accurate representation of waxing and waning. The hand-stitched alligator strap, produced by Italian shoemaker Santoni, punctuates the piece with one more touch of craftsmanship.

IWC Da Vinci Automatic Moon Phase in Stainless Steel with Diamonds, $13,900;

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