Serious clothes are not what Vaquera offers season after season, but serious fashion surely is. The brand’s designers Bryn Taubensee, Patric DiCaprio, and Claire Sullivan clearly don’t subscribe to traditional practices, presenting pieces such as a dress modeled after a Tiffany & Co. drawstring pouch, or a voluminous graduation cap and gown under a petticoat. There is a near childlike quality with their collections, as if they were found in forgotten trunks in an attic, beckoning to be dug up for a playdate. And for Spring 2020, the imaginary scene was a funeral for a mistress of misfits, who, according to obituary-style show notes, was New York itself.
“New York, NY found dead on September 9,” it read. “Cause listed as heartbreak. She forgot her history. Also, boredom, frustration, disappointment. Not giving a fuck. Too many fucks in this city. We loved her so much. When you love someone, you don’t notice the smell. Hopefully she comes back.”
Odd as that may sound, it accurately represents the vibe of the collection: somber, subversive, and chock full of humor. There were a number of roomy dresses with exaggerated folds and flares, micro-mini striped suits with elaborate headpieces or bows around the neck, and distressed denim separates with ruffled shirts. These, to be sure, were the tame pieces, especially when compared to a pair a light blue pants that went over the shoulders of designer André Walker, who made a cameo appearance at the show; or a large heart-shaped pillow in red and pink that was worn as a dress. Indeed, all these elements make for an outré lineup, but when pieced apart, a great deal of what was presented is commercially viable. And for anyone in the fashion business, that’s as serious as it gets.
Check out the Vaquera Spring 2020 collection in the slideshow: