Phoebe Philo’s fall collection for Céline carried a serious tone. Models marched down the runway in muted colors and boxy, ’80s-style silhouettes once favored by Bright Lights Big City-era bankers. In this cloud of formal workwear, Philo’s show put a new spin on the pantsuit, reimagining the fashion staple as an efficient, everyday uniform tinged with office-like masculinity. And she wasn’t alone. Max Mara, Loewe, Lemaire, Jil Sander, and Hermès all embraced the trend with a looser, ’80s-style treatment: oversize, square-shouldered jackets were paired with loose-fitting trousers (or even jumpsuits).